6/12/24 Volt Manual Wheel Battery Charger/Starter

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 Schumacher PSW-61224 DSR ProSeries 250/200/180 Amp 6/12/24 Volt Manual Wheel Battery Charger/Starte

Schumacher PSW-61224 DSR ProSeries 250/200/180 Amp 6/12/24 Volt Manual Wheel Battery Charger/Starte







Tuesday, September 24, 2013

24v Battery Booster

24v Battery Booster





24v Battery Booster



Every time I want to fire up my old 71 Datsun (that's Nissan for those of you younger than 30) 240 Z there's a good chance that the battery has drained down and that I can't start it! Looking around at car forums I read about this nifty little gadget....It's like a battery trickle charger....sort of. Whereas it's not recommended to keep a trickle charger hooked up all the time, this one has circuitry to limit the current and sense when the battery needs charging. It only charges at 1.25 amps which is easier on the battery.


24v Battery Booster


I've had it on for a month now and it's great. The first couple of days, the red light was on indicating charging. Since then it's been on green and the car starts right up. I live in Houston where the heat and humidity can be just as brutal on batteries as the cold.


24v Battery Booster

I highly recommend this "tender" for those that have cars that stay unused for long periods.

As other reviews have mentioned it comes with a set of adapters that allow you to permanently attach pigtails to the battery posts and then you can quickly connect the tender without having to use the alligator clips (also included).


24v Battery Booster


For the price and free shipping you can't go wrong!

UPDATE after two years of use.
I can now reconfirm that these battery tenders work great - I've had them hooked up continuously on two cars that stay in the garage a lot and I've NEVER had them not start right up. A quick glance at the LED display lets me know that the batteries are either charging or fully charged. It's a real pleasure to be able to go right up and enjoy your wheels without having to worry about whether the battery is dead. I can't say for sure, but I suspect that it lengthens the life of the battery as well. 


24v Battery Booster

This little gizmo is dynamite.

I have a 4 year old Accord that, due to circumstance, only has about 4400 miles. Rarely driven...and what driving is done is mostly at night.

Sat for a week once in very cold weather...dead battery.

Ordered this. Hooked it up. 100% charge and the battery is very powerful once again.( had thought I would probably need a new one).

It's very small size makes it extremely easy to use and store. And it will not overcharge, so you do not have to babysit the process.

It's LEDs glow red when charging. Green and red blink once 80% has been achieved. Solid green at 100%.

It did, in very cold weather, take a long time to establish a full charge on my almost completely discharged battery. The battery would have been usable in a few hours, but 100% took close to 18.

Highly recommended. 


24v Battery Booster

Thursday, April 11, 2013

The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery

The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery





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ItemTitle

Much has been said and written about car batteries and how to jump start a car
that has a dead one. The thing is, a lot of this info is either incomplete or wrong.

Sooner or later you will find your self in a car with a dead battery. So please read on.

Here I will give you the right and up to dated way to jump-start a car safely. Of course this is if you are stranded away from home. When you are at home the best thing to do is use a charger, not a booster or cables.
First of all I don't recommend jumping cables to the motorist, second the best options are to use a booster or just call (an expert mobile service) or take the vehicle to an expert shop. If the battery is older than 3 years or so, it could be bad.
If you must use jumper cables then here I will show the right way to do it.
Read the whole article since the info is all over the same.

First some information about batteries.

I repair many vehicles with bad batteries. The reasons the battery went bad can be many, so after jumping a vehicle you should seek professional help. Here I will tell you what can make a battery go bad, what to do to prevent it and things to do in an emergency situation.

Why a battery goes bad:

o Bad alternator.

o Bad or loose serpentine belt or off or missing serpentine belt due to another bad component.
o Excessive heat or cold.

o Age.

o Defective Part from factory. (Rare).

o Leaving the car sitting too long or driving the car in short trips not

allowing the battery to recharge.

o Too much drain, like the battery is too small for the demand. Or maybe

there are add-ons like monster stereo systems etc.

o Parasitic drain. Or just leaving the lights or something on.

o Dirty connector/terminals.

o Vibration. When there's no hold down.

o Using the wrong fluid to replenish it, like tap water instead of distilled water.

o Bad computer. The voltage regulator is there in some cars.

o Physical damage. Car accident, being dropped.

Taking care of your battery.

The best way to prevent battery failures is by doing regular maintenance on the vehicle. When regular maintenance is done the battery should be one of
the main items checked. They should clean terminals, top off the fluid if possible using only distilled water, do some tests on it, and of course test the charging system etc.
Even the best batteries will meet their maker sooner or later. They can "die¬hard" or die soft but they all die. The average life of most batteries is about 3 years, believe it or not. Some top of the line batteries can last a bit longer. I have noticed a decline on the life of batteries lately. So if your battery is about that age, have it checked or just change it to have peace of mind specially if you're making a long trip.

What to do if your battery is dead.

In an emergency when a battery is dead, the first thing that comes to mind usually is to "jump" the car. Well I don't recommend this. First of all this is a potentially dangerous action. (Doing this can cause an explosion and injure you or actually kill you (pieces of plastic going off at very high speed can cut your throat), blind you, or deafen you). The best thing will be to call someone to come and check the car or take it to a shop (there's a chance the alternator could be bad, so replacing or boosting the battery may not solve your problem). If you happen to have cables in your car then you have to find another car to boost you. This is dangerous too, because in doing so you can damage very expensive parts in both your and the assistant vehicle. There's a change of connecting the cables wrong if you're not familiar with the process, if this happens you can disable any of the two cars involved for good and incur in more expensive repairs. The best way to do this if you choose to boost the car is with a portable booster. Some have a switch that will prevent you from causing sparks. Also some models have a device that will polarize the system automatically. So it will be impossible to connect it the wrong way. Some can be connected right at the lighter port, but this takes more time because you have to let the booster charge the bad battery for a while, if you try to start the car right away you could blow the inline fuse or burn the cable.

Also after you get your car running, if you disconnect the assistant car and leave the car running to recharge your low battery this will cause serious damage to the alternator. The alternator is not designed to charge batteries that are too low or at zero volts but to keep them charged. The right way to do this is when using a portable booster to leave it connected to the car so the alternator will charge both slowly and not stress it self. The alternator has the ability to sense the battery state of charge and also the system voltage demand. It will charge accordingly. If the battery is very low it will charge continuously, hence straining it self and overheating. After 30 minutes or so you can then disconnect the booster and keep driving the car for some more time to charge the battery fully. Better yet just drive the car to the nearest service place or call a mobile service when you get home. If you're driving at night or your vehicle has day driving lights this will take a little longer. Of course after having any problem with a low battery and getting the car running, the intelligent thing to do is get your favorite tech to check you system completely to have peace of mind.

Another thing that you need to know is this, sometimes you have a battery installed and it fails soon after (one or two days) why? Well there are different reasons, the battery could be defective (very rare), or there's an intermittent problem with the charging system or a device that is putting a small drain after you turn the car off. New cars have many computers and they use a small amount of energy after the car is turned off, but it is a very small amount and it should not drain the battery in less than 3 months approximately. If it does is because one of the computers could be staying awake too long or has an intermittent short. If this happens to you, don't get upset thinking they sold you a bad battery, or that the mechanic is incompetent. The carr has to be diagnosed again to see what happened.

The right way to jump-start a car.

This is the way I recommend to perform a battery jump with cables. This takes a little longer than what most publications recommend, but is the safe way to do it. I am a professional mechanic with 28 years of experience.

Before you even think about getting your jumping cables out you should:

 First of all it will not hurt to read your owners manual, there you can find lots of info pertaining the procedure. Like where the battery is "hidden" etc.

 Make sure both cars are close enough for cables to reach with out cars touching.

 Inspect the battery for signs of damage. A broken battery case is not a good sign. Do not jump if case is cracked or you see fluid leaking.

 Set the emergency brake on both cars and turn off both ignitions and any other accessories other than the flasher as mentioned.

 Keep at least one of the vehicles flashers on and any other safety device like flares etc displayed.

Battery terminals should be free of dirt and or corrosion. Use at least water and a wire brush to clean them.

 Make sure both cars are of the same voltage and polarity. Some cars are grounded at the positive instead of the negative although rare. Most cars in the road have 12 volts batteries. With the advent of hybrid vehicles I will strongly recommend you just calling an expert. Hybrid cars have very high voltage batteries. 12 volts batteries won't harm you even if you touch both terminals but hybrid use much higher voltage. Also avoid connecting the cables backwards; very bad things can happen if you do.

 Wear at least eye protection that includes a face protector. Gloves will be nice too. Do not allow battery fluid to touch you, your clothes or the paint job.

 In very cold weather make sure the electrolyte is not frozen. (Use a flashlight etc to inspect, not a lighter).

 Be very careful not to touch any moving part of the engine like belts, fans, etc while performing the procedure either with the cables or your clothes or jewelry etc.

 Now the cable part, (see illustration at the end of article) before you connect any of the terminals make sure they are not touching each other to avoid any sparks. Batteries give off very explosive gasses that can kill you if they ignite. Also if the cables get hot be aware that they could be too thin or the engine could be dragging for some reason. The starter could also be bad (grounding it self). Also may be you have cranked the car too long. Check to make sure the clamps are attached properly. Let tem cool off a bit.

 If anything like dome lights come on after the cables are connected, the cables are connected correctly.

 The first terminal to be connected as recommended is the positive one in the donor's car then at the disabled car (both at the battery if possible).

 Then you connect the negative cable at the battery terminal of the donor's car and make sure you can access the engine at the disabled car to connect the cable there.

 When the cars finally starts, keep at least the headlamps on to aid in keeping any voltage spikes from damaging the delicate circuits in the many modules on today's cars.

 (+) Is the positive terminal (usually red). (-) Is the negative terminal (usually black). This cable goes to the car chassis and the engine block from the battery.

 Disconnecting sequence is the reversal of the connecting sequence

 Smoking is not recommended any time you are working near cars.

More about this.

Never hook up batteries in a series circuit way, you will get twice the voltage and blow many things including computers.
This will certainly damage your electrical system to say the least.

Some cars with antitheft systems will activate it whenever the battery is low or disconnected. Again read the owners manual for info on this and how to reset them.
Every manufacturer use different systems.

When jumping a car you have to first charge the battery with the "donor" car for at least 5 minutes or more if possible, then try, with the cables disconnected to start the car. If the car doesn't crank or cranks slowly then recharge some more with donor car, then with cables connected try to crank the disabled car.

When selecting a set of jumper cables make sure you get a good quality set. The thicker the cable the better. Saving money here will prove a very bad choice. Cheap cables can overheat and in many cases burn or just don't work when you use them (cheap construction around the clamps). Also don't get the shortest or the longest. The middle will be best.

Never crank a vehicle more than the recommended lapse in the owner's manual (usually no more than 10 seconds) to avoid damaging the starter. If the car cranks for very long periods with out starting then you could have more serious problems than just electrical ones. Always wait some time before trying again to avoid damaging your starter or damaging the donor's battery.

If when you connect the last cable at the disabled car you see a lot of sparks make sure there isn't anything on, or the cables are connected properly (polarity), otherwise some sparks are normal since the disabled car's battery is probably very low or just dead.

There are some top-of the line cables that feature a foolproof device against connecting them wrong.

Every time the battery goes too low it gets weak. Different from deep cycle batteries on boats or RV's, car batteries are not designed for this and will after a few discharges just quit altogether

Batteries used to be better known as "accumulators" and you can guess why don't you? Yes they store electricity and the alternator's job is to keep it charged not to charge it from 0 volt, that is the job of a charger.

A battery won't get damaged if kept in the concrete floor instead of on top of a piece of wood. The way batteries are constructed today prevents this.

You don't need to go and spend big bucks for a battery at the dealer, not to mention towing costs. Any battery that meets the specification of your vehicle will do well if maintained properly. The trick here is to get the right battery, meaning the right capacity. Never use one that has less than what is required. A little bigger is better.

Some batteries have a little window that has a green or black indicator to tell you if the battery is good. Well this indicator is not very accurate for this, since it only measures the state of charge of only one of the battery's 6 cells. Another cell could be bad and you could get a "green" indicator even tough the battery has only about 10 volts, which is not enough to properly start a car. Some of the devices on your car might still work tough. The car will crank very slowly.

If by any chance acid gets in your eyes, do all you can to get it out pronto. The more it stays there the bigger the chance for cornea damage.

If you suspect a bad connection on the jumper cables, do not wiggle the connector while connected. Disconnect one on the disabled car first then wiggle the suspect ones then reconnect the rest. Remember you want to avoid making sparks.
After using the jumper cables wash them with water if possible and store them in the bag they came in. This will avoid damage to your trunk from the acid that gets stuck to the terminals.
Always work on a well-ventilated area.

The alternator. The heart of the system.

If your alternator is bad, it was the cause of the dead battery in the first place; so jumping the battery won't get you too far. As a matter of fact you probably won't be able to drive even a mile more. You could end up at a neighborhood where you don't know anyone that will be too wiling to help you.

If the battery or alternator or charging light was on before the battery died, then it is still on after you jump the car then the charging system could have a problem. It will be a good idea to contact a professional.
An alternator could be malfunctioning even if you don't see a red light in your dash telling you so.

If you are knowledgeable and want to test your charging system with a voltmeter, consider this, some carmakers have systems that will not charge when the battery is found to be full. This is done to prevent overcharging and also to increase miles per gallon (The drag on the engine is less) This also helps the durability of the alternator.

Alternators are not designed to "charge" batteries (specially newer cars, they are usually weak in this area). Their job is to keep a fully charged battery that way.
When a battery goes down for any reason, the alternator has to work overtime to bring it back to normal. The use of day driving lights is one of the reasons many alternators fail prematurely, the alternator works harder than in a regular system. But they do offer a good safety measure. Also accessories not installed at the factory like monster stereos will also put an extreme demand on a stock system not designed for such loads. There are some high amp alternators available for these cases. Also the use of multiple batteries helps. Consult an expert in this field for assistance.

Never disconnect a running car battery terminal to "test" the charging system. This was done long ago before cars started using computers. But today doing this can and will damage very expensive components. Also it can create sparks that could cause an explosion. Believe me, many people still use this method to test the alternator, yes even people that "think" they know, like some airplane mechanics.

Starting a car with the cables connected and letting it run could damage systems in either car. Things like computers etc. I have fixed many vehicles with bad alternators and computers due to this. That is why I recommend charging the bad battery by letting the good car charge the bad one for at least 10 minutes. Then you can disconnect the cables and start the car with out damaging anything. There's a theory that running two cars with the cables connected can damage the alternators. I will up date this article with some facts about this.

Push starting; it may not get you too far either.

Another way to get a car running is by push starting it. This is not recommended either. First, damage to the drive train is possible, (Expensive) especially if done often. Second, as I mentioned before, if the car doesn't run because the battery is dead, the alternator will work too hard to charge the battery when you get it started. If the problem is the alternator, the car won't run too far at all because the battery is not getting any charge so it will be depleted very soon. Push start should be done only in extreme emergency situations. As I said, be intelligent and call an expert.

I hope the information here was of help to you. As always no one is perfect. If you think there's a mistake or want to add something to this article, by all means contact me directly.

Considering the low cost of replacing the battery with a new one and after reading this information I am pretty sure you will decide not to risk performing a jump instead of replacing the battery. Unless of course, you are a professional and/or already know what I wrote here.

Today's cars are very complex machines; it is better to leave things to the experts when it comes to dealing with them. You will actually save more money (or even your own life) that way by avoiding costly mistakes.

CMT of Miami works on all brands and models of vehicles. We specialize on battery installation and alternators. When you use our services you can rest assured that you will get the right battery and professional service right at your doorsteps for a fair price.


The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery


Battery Booster



Battery Booster

The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery



The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery
The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery



Battery Booster

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Commercial Colloidal Silver Vs Making Your Own With a High-Quality Colloidal Silver Generator

Commercial Colloidal Silver Vs Making Your Own With a High-Quality Colloidal Silver Generator



ItemTitle

A Dirty Little Secret About Colloidal Silver

This week I took some time out to visit several local health food stores and online sources, to check on colloidal silver prices. Interestingly, I found that prices for commercial colloidal silver products - all claiming to be "the best" - ranged anywhere from .50 an ounce to an ounce.

GNC, for example, sells a popular colloidal silver product offering 8 oz. of 10 ppm concentration for .95. That's an ounce. Not too bad, huh? And another health food store - a small regional chain - was selling tiny four-ounce bottles for - a little over an ounce.

An online source was offering their 8-oz. bottles of for , plus .95 shipping and handling - adding up to about per ounce. And another online source was offering 16 ounce "samples" of their product for plus .95 shipping and handling - about .25 per ounce.

Overall, the average price was about to an ounce. Sounds pretty good, right?

But the problem is this: During a common health crisis such as a cold, flu, sore throat, earache, tummy infection, upper respiratory infection, or other infection, experienced colloidal silver users might take anywhere from an ounce to four ounces a day or more. So you can see that it's pretty easy to end up spending some pretty hefty fungolas to cure a simple infection with this amazing, infection-fighting agent, when all is said and done!

A Dirty Little Secret

In spite of its high costs, colloidal silver has become one of the most popular nutritional supplements in America over the last two decades. By some estimates it is now used regularly by roughly 10 million Americans to help cure infections, fight disease and restore health and immunity.

But there has been a dirty little secret lurking in the background, and the big manufacturers hope you'll never find out about it.

What's that dirty little secret? It's quite simple. Manufacturers of this powerful natural infection-fighting agent have been grossly overcharging you for decades. In fact, a tiny 4-ounce bottle of store-bought colloidal silver contains only about six cents worth of actual silver particles!

6 Cents Worth of Silver Particles for ?

Yes, that's right. It costs them about six cents to make four ounces worth of product, yet greedy health food store vendors and online sources charge you as much as for that same tiny amount!

That's a whopping 2,400% mark-up on every bottle sold. No other nutritional supplement on earth is so cheap to make, yet so expensive to buy.

Outraged? You ought to be. But it gets even worse. According to one recent study, only about 43% of the commercial colloidal silver products tested contained the actual concentration of silver listed on the bottle. Some contained no silver particles at all!

In other words, not only have manufacturers of this product been grossly overcharging you, but many of them have apparently been short-changing you even further by selling you severely diluted solutions!

The Good News!

Here's the good news: Thanks to a recent breakthrough in colloidal silver-making technology, you can now completely bypass the unfair price monopoly held by commercial manufacturers. In fact, you make your own fresh, pure, unadulterated, therapeutic-quality colloidal silver - in the comfort and privacy of your own home - for about 36 cents a quart!

Yes, that's under .50 a gallon for a product many health food stores and internet vendors are charging an average of an ounce for!

And believe it or not, because of the brand new innovation we're going to tell you about, the homemade stuff is now higher in quality than most of the commercial brands!

How can this be possible? First, a little background:

How Commercial Colloidal Silver Manufacturers Tried to Sabotage the Use of Colloidal Silver Generators!

It all started about 15 years ago when a brilliant physicist named Dr. Robert Beck figured out how to produce a miniature version of the larger machines used by manufacturers to make colloidal silver.

Dr. Beck's little device, while admittedly crude, was very effective. In size, it was only slightly larger than a deck of cards. And it was powered by three 9-volt batteries. Best of all, this nifty little device allowed users to make 16 ounce batches of the liquid infection-fighting elixer at a time, for just pennies!

Soon, tens of thousands of users had purchased these little generators and began making their own colloidal silver. This threw the big commercial manufacturers into a royal tizzy. The saw their lucrative monopoly on sales falling apart right in front of their eyes, and all of the exorbitant profits they'd been making going right down the drain. After all, if even a fraction of the roughly ten million colloidal silver users across North America began making their own solutions at home, the big commercial manufacturers would face millions of dollars in sales losses annually.

So, in order to protect their profits and help cripple the sales of the little home generators, some of the big commercial manufacturers did something quite underhanded. So underhanded, in fact, it would have made any crooked politician proud. They began floating nasty rumors throughout the natural health community, stating that the colloidal silver solutions made with the tiny, battery-operated generators were somehow "toxic" or even "poisonous" because a compound called silver chloride was formed in the process.

The Big Lie

Of course, the fact that silver chloride has never been demonstrated to be "toxic" or "poisonous" was completely irrelevant to them. And the fact that silver chloride was first produced commercially by Dr. Leonard Herschberg of Johns-Hopkins University in 1923, and was used for decades in hospital settings with no ill effects, was completely ignored.

Also ignored was the fact that silver chloride is so harmless it has no significant toxicology ratings listed in the various government toxicology registries such as the ATSDR, NIOSH-RTECS, the HSDB, or the EPA.

None of this deterred the big manufacturers from making such a bogus claim. The only thing that mattered to them was bringing the sales of the popular little home generators to a screeching halt.

Of course, the tens of thousands of users of these little devices knew better. They continued making and using their own colloidal silver for only pennies per batch, curing their own infections and significantly boosting their health in the process.

But unfortunately, many people who were not as familiar with colloidal silver actually believed the carefully orchestrated campaign of rumors and lies being promulgated by some of the big manufacturers. Out of fear of ingesting harmless "silver chloride," they refrained from purchasing the little generators. And as a result, they continued to pay through the nose for those tiny four-ounce bottles of the product being sold by the big commercial manufacturers.

The Battle Continues

Since that time, the battle between commercial manufacturers and manufacturers of the little home generators, has continued unabated. But now, thanks to a brand new innovation in colloidal silver-making technology, that battle is finally about to end for good. And the big commercial manufacturers don't like it one bit.

Why? Because we've discovered a brand new kind of generator that not only makes fresh, pure, unadulterated colloidal silver without producing silver chloride, it also makes highly electrically charged silver particles that are smaller in size than anything the big manufacturers have ever been able to produce.

More on that in just a moment. But first...

What's Really Wrong With Conventional Colloidal Silver Generators?

Since the time Dr. Beck invented that first, relatively crude little battery-operated home colloidal silver generator some 15 years ago, things have changed. Many new types of such generators have been developed. The market is practically flooded with them. Some run on batteries. Some run on household AC power. Some use complex computer technology. One model even plugs into a standard household phone jack, and runs on phone power!

And while these new units have brought home colloidal silver-making technology out of the dark ages and into the realm of relatively modern technological sophistication, there is still one problem that has not (until now) successfully been resolved: all too often these nifty little home units produce overly-large silver particles that are difficult for the human body to absorb, utilize and afterwards, excrete.

Frequently, the particles are so large they do not stay properly suspended in the distilled water they are made in for extended periods of time. Instead, in a very short period of time the overly-large silver particles begin to lose their electrical charge, fall out of suspension in the solution and slowly drop to the bottom of the storage bottle (it's called "precipitation" of the silver particles), leaving a thin silvery-grey coating on the bottom. This of course vastly decreases the potency and effectiveness of the colloidal silver solution.

Interestingly enough, the big commercial manufacturers have known about this little problem all along, and have never mentioned it in spite of their utter animosity toward the little home generators.

Why have the commercial manufacturers not capitalized on this flaw and spilled the beans on this problem? The answer is simple: It is because all too frequently their expensive bottled brands of colloidal silver - sold in health food stores throughout the nation - have the very same problem. They are filled with overly-large silver particles!

Why Is Particle Size So Important?

So why is particle size so important? In order for colloidal silver to do its job - which is to help wipe out infections and restore a state of health and sustained immunity in the human body - the silver particles in a solution have to be small enough for the body to properly absorb, transport, utilize and excrete. Thus, the smaller they are, the more effective the solution will be.

In other words, smaller silver particles are absorbed better. They are much more easily transported deep into the cells and tissues, just like minerals from the foods you eat. They are utilized by the body with far greater efficiency. And they are much easier for the body to excrete afterwards, which means your risk of excessive silver buildup in the tissues and organs is virtually nil as long as you are using the product in proper moderation.

Conversely, the larger the silver particles are, the less effective the solution will be! Larger particles are harder for the body to absorb...harder for the body to transport into the cells and tissues...harder for the body to utilize...and more difficult for the body to excrete afterwards.

So it stands to reason that a colloidal silver solution consisting chiefly of tiny sub-microscopic silver particles is far more effective than one consisting chiefly of overly-large silver particles.

In fact, the only way to get at truly deep-seated infections - such as those caused by "stealth pathogens" that tend to hide deep within the cells and tissues of the human body - is if the silver particles are small enough for the body to absorb deep into the cells and tissues in the same way it absorbs other needed mineral nutrients such as iron, copper, chromium, zinc, etc.

What's more, the silver particles have to be small enough for the body to excrete after they have done their work, so you don't get an excessive buildup of silver in the body over time.

Unfortunately, most colloidal silver - whether produced by a conventional generator, or sold in health food stores by the big commercial manufacturers - simply does not contain small enough silver particles to handle the tough infections. The vast majority of the particles are too large to do the body any good at all, particularly when it comes to fighting the tougher, deep-seated infections.

Introducing: The Brand New Micro-Particle Colloidal Silver Generator!

That's one reason why I continue to be the biggest booster in the world for the brand new Micro-Particle Colloidal Silver Generator. It's a unique new kind of home generator that is truly unlike anything that's ever been produced.

In fact, this new generator can only be described as a bona-fide breakthrough in colloidal silver-making technology. In my opinion, it is literally destined to help put greedy commercial manufacturers completely out of business.

Why? Because unlike most other generators that produce silver particles in the range of 10 to 200 microns or larger (by comparison, a normal red blood cell is about 7 microns) the new Micro-Particle unit has been specially designed to produce tiny, highly absorbable sub-microscopic silver particles, many of which are only a fraction of a single micron in size!

Indeed, the brand new Micro-Particle unit produces silver particles as small as .0008 microns in size. That's only eight ten-thousands of a single micron!

Generally speaking, even bottled colloidal silver products produced by the major commercial manufacturers do not contain silver particles that are anywhere near this small, though they may claim to. Unlike bottled commercial products in which the suspended particles can clearly be seen by shining a tiny laser pointer light through the solution, micro-particle silver is so small it is barely visible even under laser light.

About As Close to Being "Dissolved" As You Can Get!

That's because it is so small, it has virtually no reflective surface. This is just about as close to "dissolved" silver particles as you can get. And because the silver particles are so small, the solution is crystal clear, even though every batch you make is literally teaming with billions of microscopic silver particles.

In fact, these silver particles are so small, to measure them requires the use of a powerful multi-million dollar piece of laboratory equipment called a Transmission Electron Microscope, operating at a whopping 175,000x magnification!

Compare that to commercially manufactured solutions, the particles of which can generally be seen at a mere 20,000x or 30,000x magnification, and you will see that we are talking about a breakthrough in home colloidal silver-making technology that is so phenomenal, nothing else like it has ever been produced!

Vastly More Effective Than Conventional Commercial Products!

Indeed, micro-particle silver is thought to be vastly more effective than conventional commercial silver solutions against hard-to-kill viruses and other deep-seated microorganisms such as those in the insidious mycloplasmas family of pathogens which are now implicated in the onset of numerous forms of chronic degenerative disease including cancer, chronic fatigue syndrome, fibromyalgia, Crohn's colitis, Type II diabetes, multiple sclerosis (MS), Parkinson's disease, Wegener's disease, and collagen-vascular diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis and Alzheimer's.

In fact, experts say the micro-particle silver produces literally phenomenal healing results, particularly in "acute care" situations involving serious deep-seated infections where prescription antibiotics or even standard colloidal silver has failed to work, or in situations where some form of chronic degenerative disease associated with mycoplasmas infection has set in.

For example, it has been widely reported that Dr. Darryl See, M.D., former co-director of the Chronic Fatigue Syndrome and Fibromyalgia Clinic at the University of California at Irvine has been having incredible success treating patients with micro-particle colloidal silver. According to Health Sciences Institute, Dr. See says he has witnessed the DNA-PCR tests of many of his patients with known mycoplasmas infections turn from positive to negative with the use of these tiny silver particles (see Mycoplasmas as agents of human disease, Health Sciences Institute, Vol. 2, #10, April 1998.)

This offers profound hope to millions who suffer from such debilitating hidden infections and the subsequent chronic degenerative diseases these insidious microorganisms can cause.

In Summary

In summary, the new Micro-Particle Colloidal Silver Generator has been specifically designed to produce a dramatically smaller range of silver particles than anything that's ever been available. This means it can do everything standard silver solutions have become famous for in terms of killing infection and restoring health and immunity. But because the tiny sub-microscopic silver particles are so small, they are far more easily utilized by the human body, and far more easily excreted. Therefore, micro-particle silver solutions can be used with phenomenal success in cases of acute, long-term chronic degenerative diseases where deep-seated infections caused by "stealth pathogens" such as those from the mycoplasmas family are suspected.

Say 'Goodbye!' to Over-Priced Commercial Silver Solutions Forever!

Finally, the big manufacturers of commercial silver solutions have met their match. Now there is no longer any reason to allow them to continue gouging you with exorbitant prices.

With the brand new Micro-Particle Colloidal Silver Generator, you can make all of the high-quality colloidal silver you want, quickly and easily, in the comfort and privacy of your own home, for only about 36 cents a quart. And you can do so for the rest of your life!

When you consider the fact that many commercial brands cost as much as or more for a tiny four-ounce bottle, you can see that your very first one-quart batch of micro-particle silver literally pays for the entire cost of the unit!

After that, your only real costs are the distilled water (about 79 cents a gallon at Wal-Mart), and once each year or so you'll need to spend to replace the set of pure, .999 fine silver wire (12 gauge) that comes with your generator.

Indeed, with a brand new Micro-Particle Colloidal Silver Generator, a single set of pure silver wire costing you only will allow you to produce over 800 bottles worth of this powerful natural infection-fighting agent over the course of a year, which would cost you over ,000 at today's typical health food store price of per bottle. And your only other cost is the cost of the distilled water.

That's about as close to producing colloidal silver for "free" as you can get! With a brand new Micro-Particle unit, you can literally afford to bathe in the stuff if you want. Indeed, many users brew up a one-quart batch and add it nightly to their bath water for the soothing and invigorating effect it has on the skin.

When you factor in the cost of the silver wire and the cost of the distilled water, it comes out to about 36 cents to make a full one-quart batch of high-quality micro-particle colloidal silver that just blows away the commercially prepared brands costing up to for a tiny 4-ounce bottle. And that's worth a LOT, I think you'll agree!


Commercial Colloidal Silver Vs Making Your Own With a High-Quality Colloidal Silver Generator


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Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Cell Phone Radiation: The REAL Issue and How to Reduce Radiation Levels Coming From Your Cell Phone

Cell Phone Radiation: The REAL Issue and How to Reduce Radiation Levels Coming From Your Cell Phone


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Recently, the WHO, the World Health Organization came out with a statement that Cell Phones may be hazardous to your health. They made this conclusion after they had a conference in which world scientists, doctors etc., examined the data from one study done in Sweden and concluded that despite all of the other years where they could not make a determination, this year they could.

Was this politically motivated, where the WHO, the organization that created the scare of h1n1 virus, SARs, and Mad Cow, actually needed some more limelight to become relevant or is this real possibility, that is, Cell Phones used for long periods of time can cause tumors in the brain?

In looking at the study, several key facts come out of it. Some of them are based on their assumptions and some as well that are based on logic.

Where is that danged antenna located?

A short time ago, cell phones had a small telescopic antenna that you could raise or lower. This migrated to small stub fixed antennas located at the top of your cell phone, and then off to what is now used predominantly which is a "Patch" antenna, a small wafer about 1" x 1/2 " in size placed behind the back cover of your phone ( not the batter cover). These patch antennas work almost as well as the telescopic ones, but inherently are not as efficient. This means that "Not all cell phones are created equal". That is to say different cell phones produce different power levels.

More importantly there are cell phone that have their antenna located behind the ear piece of the cell phone, and others that are located behind the microphone, or mouth piece. There was no distinction made between these two cases. There should be. Close proximity to the area behind the ear and above, energy transmitted by the cell phone has a higher intensity than that transmitted by the antenna behind the mouth piece. For the signal to travel into the brain area, the signal must pass through the jawbone, the moisture of the mouth, and on to the brain. The energy of the cell phone at 5" from the antenna we can be measured with the spectrum analyzers we have and it was 10 dB or ten times less than that of the energy directly at the ear.

iPhones for example have the antenna located surrounding the cell phone from the right side over the top to the left side. The energy is distributed among a path of approximately 6". No study was done to determine whether the distribution of the energy over the 6" was different than coming from a patch antenna 1" x " in size. Blackberry and most Androids have the antenna located in the bottom of the phone at the back. Again, the signal would have to travel through the phone and then through the jawbone. Similar with Motorola razors, the flip phones where the antenna is located near the mouth piece.

Certainly not all cell phones are created equal.

Cell Phone Output Power Levels

What was the energy level of the cell phone to start off with? That is an important point. If this was a European study, a cell phone can put out a maximum power of 2 watts. Here in the United States, in order to conserve energy, and "talk time" cell phones are designed to operate at lower levels, close to 1 mill watt in most cases. US cell phones have a maximum energy level of of a watt... 25% that of the European maximums. This was not taken into consideration.

What Standard Protocol did they test?

CDMA GSM or iDen? The three standards used in the United States, are infinitely different. CDMA phones normally operate at even lower powers levels than their GSM counterparts. The equipment of the CDMA in the USA is the UMTS in Europe or WCDMA. GSM operates channelized m and CDMA is spread over a greater area. Iden phones, famous for push to talk operate at much higher levels than the other two systems, because their towers are father apart forcing the phone to operate at higher levels. Up to 2 watts in some cases!

Other considerations.

Did they take into consideration other factors, like total amount of metal in the particular cell iPhone versus plastic? Several Nokia, Samsung and Sanyo phones have very little metal, but put out the same power as the Motorola counterparts. This is all very important in looking at the study.

Using Headsets versus the phone up against you ear.

Most news organizations are coming out indicting that the use of a Bluetooth headset is advisable compared to directly putting your cell phone up against your ear. They have no basis for this discussion. No test has ever been done on the effects of Bluetooth headsets on brain cancer!

Here is what they are not telling you: Bluetooth headsets operate a frequency of 2.4-2.5 GHz. Your microwave oven operates at a similar frequency. The headset puts out 2.5 mill watts of power, at a distance closer to your brain than the cell phone! Earpieces are inserted into the ear canal making them closer! The 2.5 mill watts of power is 2.5 times higher than the energy form the cell phone at normal conditions. How anyone can recommend going from a cell phone to a Bluetooth headset is beyond my understanding...unless of course you sell Bluetooth headsets.

DBars (DA-BARS)

The bars on the cell phone can be a good indicator of whether or not your phone is operating at full output power or at the levels that I describe, which are at 1 milliwatt...minimal power. First, the higher the energy that you receive from the tower, the closer the tower is to you and the less energy the cell phone has to put out to reach the tower. More bars on your phone = lower transmission levels of your phone. The power level of your phone transmitting to the tower is inversely proportional to the received signal from the tower. Da Bars! Can you trust the bars on your phone? 5 Bars is FULL? Only with some phones. Motorola we have always found to be truthful with their display of the bars. 3 bars means -75 dBm of downlink signal, and full bars, usually means -60 dB. Each bar on the Motorola phone represents 10 -20 times energy difference. Now, with Samsung, LG etc., they like to 'juice' those bars up. That means that 5 bars on their phone could still mean a lower signal coming form the tower and a high signal generated from your phone. In fact the carriers like giving those people that complain about signal levels on their phones the juiced up models...that way they can full you into thinking you got better signal! If you have 1 or two bars, you can be certain that your cell phone has to power up to full, most of the time. You also notice that the cell phones battery runs out quicker... because it is transmitting at full power!

So what can be done about lowering the energy level of the cell phone so that I minimize the risks, if any, associated with electromagnetic radiation exposure? What you need to do is get better downlink signals from the tower so that your phone does not have to power up as high. There are several ways to do this

1. Use an External Antenna

In some phones, there is a " small plug located at the back either top or bottom...Behind this plug is a jack that connects directly to the antenna output of the cell phone. With an adapter connected to a cable plugged into this port, you can add an external antenna that can be placed at least 1 meter (3 feet) away from you. A few things happen as a result. The amount of energy you get from the external antenna at 3 feet is 1000 times less than that of the antenna of the cell phone when placed against you rear. As well, since this antenna is more efficient than the small one at the back of your cell phone, the phone is more efficient in transmitting and receiving the signal and therefore powers down to the lowest levels. In some cases this amounts to 10000 times less energy needed, increased talk time, and better reception of course no dropped calls. The Antenna can be stuck to the car window (we have suction cop antennas) to your window at your house as well. OR you can simply hold it at a distance or place it beside you. With the Magnetic mount antennas., placing it outside the car or home results in a doubling of the signal levels of the towers, and halving of the transmission energy of the cell phone.

2. Install a docking station.

We have two products on our side, one made by Dock N talk, and the other is Siemens Gigaset. These two products connect to your cell phone either wirelessly or via a cable to the data port. By placing the docking station near a window, say in your kitchen and attaching the cell phone to it, your signal level of the cell phone will be higher. More importantly, the cell phone when transmitting will be nowhere near you. That is because these two products connect the cell phone directly to the landline phone sin your home. When someone calls your cell number, the house phone rings. You pick it up, (even has caller ID) and you answer just like you would if the phone is up against your ear. AS well, you can dial out. The cell phone does not have to be next to you! It can be anywhere else in the house. The added benefit of course is that you can get rid of your landline entirely and use the cell phone only.

3. Adding a repeater system.

If you have at least 3 bars outside your home and 1-2 bars inside, you are a perfect candidate for Cell phone booster or Repeater. The reason the signal level is lower in your house than outside is because building materials absorb and reflect radio frequency signals. Our repeater system simply put bridges this resistance, and takes the signal from outside, amplifies it and transmits it inside. Similarly the signal from your phone gets amplified and sent to the tower. You install an antenna outdoors, run the cable inside to the amplifier and install a small indoor antenna. Turn it on and presto! 1 bar becomes 5, and as I said, the more bars you see on your phone the less signal is being transmitted.

Some may ask, but what about the energy coming from the repeater? Isn't that a worry? Fact is because our antenna outside sees the tower... the amount of energy that is being picked up and amplifier is about the same as the output power of the cell phone. The difference is that the antenna of the repeater is located three or more feet from where you are. That means the signal level from the repeater is 1000 times or more less than that of your cell phone at your ear! No worries here! We have repeaters for small homes, offices, warehouse and even hospitals and hotels. The added benefit of course is not only do you reduce the radiation level of the cell phones, you increase talk time, get less dropped calls, and you are able to use your phone in more places than before.

4. How about the RAD sticker?

There are many products on the market that tell you that they will reduce the energy of the cell phone. Stickers placed at the back of your phone for instance are nothing more than a sham. Any metal placed near the antenna of a cell phone causes the cell phone to get less signal from the tower...and if you have been reading....forces your phone to power up at higher levels!

5. More Text Messaging less Phone Use.

Use text messaging more often. I always wonder in this world of progress, how we ended up back with text messaging. IF you are older, and remember the days of the pager, you would dial a phone number for a pager, and a signal would be sent, the pager would beep and the person would call his answering service. That migrated to being able to send the phone number to the pager of the party that wanted to be called, to being able to answer back to another pager by a small keyboard on the pager that you received it or sending a message. This migrated to being able to call someone using a cell phone rather than paging them. This migrated to paging them on a cell phone, then finally text messaging them instead of calling them. How the hell did we do a full 360 degree circle with technology that was supposed to move us forward?

Having said that, the best you can do, is use the technology sparingly. There is no reason to talk on a cell phone if you have a landline near you. AS well, you could do the good old fashion way of waiting until you get home to call your friend. What is so urgent? If the WHO is right, and maybe they are wrong, or maybe next year they will look at the facts, be pressured by the CTIA (organization that represents the carriers) and have their ruling about cell phones overturned. Perhaps even better....they will read my article, ask the people performing the study to study more... and maybe 50 years from now, we will get a different answer.... Cell Phones are healthy! They reduce your stress levels. Less stress = better health. Higher tower signals = lower cell phone transmission power = better health.

If you have any concern whatsoever regarding the use of the cell phone, you can abstain from using it of course. However, any and all of the solutions described above will certainly decrease the energy levels, reduce the risk of cancer if any, and provide you with decent coverage and less dropped calls.


Cell Phone Radiation: The REAL Issue and How to Reduce Radiation Levels Coming From Your Cell Phone


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The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery


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Much has been said and written about car batteries and how to jump start a car
that has a dead one. The thing is, a lot of this info is either incomplete or wrong.

Sooner or later you will find your self in a car with a dead battery. So please read on.

Here I will give you the right and up to dated way to jump-start a car safely. Of course this is if you are stranded away from home. When you are at home the best thing to do is use a charger, not a booster or cables.
First of all I don't recommend jumping cables to the motorist, second the best options are to use a booster or just call (an expert mobile service) or take the vehicle to an expert shop. If the battery is older than 3 years or so, it could be bad.
If you must use jumper cables then here I will show the right way to do it.
Read the whole article since the info is all over the same.

First some information about batteries.

I repair many vehicles with bad batteries. The reasons the battery went bad can be many, so after jumping a vehicle you should seek professional help. Here I will tell you what can make a battery go bad, what to do to prevent it and things to do in an emergency situation.

Why a battery goes bad:

o Bad alternator.

o Bad or loose serpentine belt or off or missing serpentine belt due to another bad component.
o Excessive heat or cold.

o Age.

o Defective Part from factory. (Rare).

o Leaving the car sitting too long or driving the car in short trips not

allowing the battery to recharge.

o Too much drain, like the battery is too small for the demand. Or maybe

there are add-ons like monster stereo systems etc.

o Parasitic drain. Or just leaving the lights or something on.

o Dirty connector/terminals.

o Vibration. When there's no hold down.

o Using the wrong fluid to replenish it, like tap water instead of distilled water.

o Bad computer. The voltage regulator is there in some cars.

o Physical damage. Car accident, being dropped.

Taking care of your battery.

The best way to prevent battery failures is by doing regular maintenance on the vehicle. When regular maintenance is done the battery should be one of
the main items checked. They should clean terminals, top off the fluid if possible using only distilled water, do some tests on it, and of course test the charging system etc.
Even the best batteries will meet their maker sooner or later. They can "die¬hard" or die soft but they all die. The average life of most batteries is about 3 years, believe it or not. Some top of the line batteries can last a bit longer. I have noticed a decline on the life of batteries lately. So if your battery is about that age, have it checked or just change it to have peace of mind specially if you're making a long trip.

What to do if your battery is dead.

In an emergency when a battery is dead, the first thing that comes to mind usually is to "jump" the car. Well I don't recommend this. First of all this is a potentially dangerous action. (Doing this can cause an explosion and injure you or actually kill you (pieces of plastic going off at very high speed can cut your throat), blind you, or deafen you). The best thing will be to call someone to come and check the car or take it to a shop (there's a chance the alternator could be bad, so replacing or boosting the battery may not solve your problem). If you happen to have cables in your car then you have to find another car to boost you. This is dangerous too, because in doing so you can damage very expensive parts in both your and the assistant vehicle. There's a change of connecting the cables wrong if you're not familiar with the process, if this happens you can disable any of the two cars involved for good and incur in more expensive repairs. The best way to do this if you choose to boost the car is with a portable booster. Some have a switch that will prevent you from causing sparks. Also some models have a device that will polarize the system automatically. So it will be impossible to connect it the wrong way. Some can be connected right at the lighter port, but this takes more time because you have to let the booster charge the bad battery for a while, if you try to start the car right away you could blow the inline fuse or burn the cable.

Also after you get your car running, if you disconnect the assistant car and leave the car running to recharge your low battery this will cause serious damage to the alternator. The alternator is not designed to charge batteries that are too low or at zero volts but to keep them charged. The right way to do this is when using a portable booster to leave it connected to the car so the alternator will charge both slowly and not stress it self. The alternator has the ability to sense the battery state of charge and also the system voltage demand. It will charge accordingly. If the battery is very low it will charge continuously, hence straining it self and overheating. After 30 minutes or so you can then disconnect the booster and keep driving the car for some more time to charge the battery fully. Better yet just drive the car to the nearest service place or call a mobile service when you get home. If you're driving at night or your vehicle has day driving lights this will take a little longer. Of course after having any problem with a low battery and getting the car running, the intelligent thing to do is get your favorite tech to check you system completely to have peace of mind.

Another thing that you need to know is this, sometimes you have a battery installed and it fails soon after (one or two days) why? Well there are different reasons, the battery could be defective (very rare), or there's an intermittent problem with the charging system or a device that is putting a small drain after you turn the car off. New cars have many computers and they use a small amount of energy after the car is turned off, but it is a very small amount and it should not drain the battery in less than 3 months approximately. If it does is because one of the computers could be staying awake too long or has an intermittent short. If this happens to you, don't get upset thinking they sold you a bad battery, or that the mechanic is incompetent. The carr has to be diagnosed again to see what happened.

The right way to jump-start a car.

This is the way I recommend to perform a battery jump with cables. This takes a little longer than what most publications recommend, but is the safe way to do it. I am a professional mechanic with 28 years of experience.

Before you even think about getting your jumping cables out you should:

 First of all it will not hurt to read your owners manual, there you can find lots of info pertaining the procedure. Like where the battery is "hidden" etc.

 Make sure both cars are close enough for cables to reach with out cars touching.

 Inspect the battery for signs of damage. A broken battery case is not a good sign. Do not jump if case is cracked or you see fluid leaking.

 Set the emergency brake on both cars and turn off both ignitions and any other accessories other than the flasher as mentioned.

 Keep at least one of the vehicles flashers on and any other safety device like flares etc displayed.

Battery terminals should be free of dirt and or corrosion. Use at least water and a wire brush to clean them.

 Make sure both cars are of the same voltage and polarity. Some cars are grounded at the positive instead of the negative although rare. Most cars in the road have 12 volts batteries. With the advent of hybrid vehicles I will strongly recommend you just calling an expert. Hybrid cars have very high voltage batteries. 12 volts batteries won't harm you even if you touch both terminals but hybrid use much higher voltage. Also avoid connecting the cables backwards; very bad things can happen if you do.

 Wear at least eye protection that includes a face protector. Gloves will be nice too. Do not allow battery fluid to touch you, your clothes or the paint job.

 In very cold weather make sure the electrolyte is not frozen. (Use a flashlight etc to inspect, not a lighter).

 Be very careful not to touch any moving part of the engine like belts, fans, etc while performing the procedure either with the cables or your clothes or jewelry etc.

 Now the cable part, (see illustration at the end of article) before you connect any of the terminals make sure they are not touching each other to avoid any sparks. Batteries give off very explosive gasses that can kill you if they ignite. Also if the cables get hot be aware that they could be too thin or the engine could be dragging for some reason. The starter could also be bad (grounding it self). Also may be you have cranked the car too long. Check to make sure the clamps are attached properly. Let tem cool off a bit.

 If anything like dome lights come on after the cables are connected, the cables are connected correctly.

 The first terminal to be connected as recommended is the positive one in the donor's car then at the disabled car (both at the battery if possible).

 Then you connect the negative cable at the battery terminal of the donor's car and make sure you can access the engine at the disabled car to connect the cable there.

 When the cars finally starts, keep at least the headlamps on to aid in keeping any voltage spikes from damaging the delicate circuits in the many modules on today's cars.

 (+) Is the positive terminal (usually red). (-) Is the negative terminal (usually black). This cable goes to the car chassis and the engine block from the battery.

 Disconnecting sequence is the reversal of the connecting sequence

 Smoking is not recommended any time you are working near cars.

More about this.

Never hook up batteries in a series circuit way, you will get twice the voltage and blow many things including computers.
This will certainly damage your electrical system to say the least.

Some cars with antitheft systems will activate it whenever the battery is low or disconnected. Again read the owners manual for info on this and how to reset them.
Every manufacturer use different systems.

When jumping a car you have to first charge the battery with the "donor" car for at least 5 minutes or more if possible, then try, with the cables disconnected to start the car. If the car doesn't crank or cranks slowly then recharge some more with donor car, then with cables connected try to crank the disabled car.

When selecting a set of jumper cables make sure you get a good quality set. The thicker the cable the better. Saving money here will prove a very bad choice. Cheap cables can overheat and in many cases burn or just don't work when you use them (cheap construction around the clamps). Also don't get the shortest or the longest. The middle will be best.

Never crank a vehicle more than the recommended lapse in the owner's manual (usually no more than 10 seconds) to avoid damaging the starter. If the car cranks for very long periods with out starting then you could have more serious problems than just electrical ones. Always wait some time before trying again to avoid damaging your starter or damaging the donor's battery.

If when you connect the last cable at the disabled car you see a lot of sparks make sure there isn't anything on, or the cables are connected properly (polarity), otherwise some sparks are normal since the disabled car's battery is probably very low or just dead.

There are some top-of the line cables that feature a foolproof device against connecting them wrong.

Every time the battery goes too low it gets weak. Different from deep cycle batteries on boats or RV's, car batteries are not designed for this and will after a few discharges just quit altogether

Batteries used to be better known as "accumulators" and you can guess why don't you? Yes they store electricity and the alternator's job is to keep it charged not to charge it from 0 volt, that is the job of a charger.

A battery won't get damaged if kept in the concrete floor instead of on top of a piece of wood. The way batteries are constructed today prevents this.

You don't need to go and spend big bucks for a battery at the dealer, not to mention towing costs. Any battery that meets the specification of your vehicle will do well if maintained properly. The trick here is to get the right battery, meaning the right capacity. Never use one that has less than what is required. A little bigger is better.

Some batteries have a little window that has a green or black indicator to tell you if the battery is good. Well this indicator is not very accurate for this, since it only measures the state of charge of only one of the battery's 6 cells. Another cell could be bad and you could get a "green" indicator even tough the battery has only about 10 volts, which is not enough to properly start a car. Some of the devices on your car might still work tough. The car will crank very slowly.

If by any chance acid gets in your eyes, do all you can to get it out pronto. The more it stays there the bigger the chance for cornea damage.

If you suspect a bad connection on the jumper cables, do not wiggle the connector while connected. Disconnect one on the disabled car first then wiggle the suspect ones then reconnect the rest. Remember you want to avoid making sparks.
After using the jumper cables wash them with water if possible and store them in the bag they came in. This will avoid damage to your trunk from the acid that gets stuck to the terminals.
Always work on a well-ventilated area.

The alternator. The heart of the system.

If your alternator is bad, it was the cause of the dead battery in the first place; so jumping the battery won't get you too far. As a matter of fact you probably won't be able to drive even a mile more. You could end up at a neighborhood where you don't know anyone that will be too wiling to help you.

If the battery or alternator or charging light was on before the battery died, then it is still on after you jump the car then the charging system could have a problem. It will be a good idea to contact a professional.
An alternator could be malfunctioning even if you don't see a red light in your dash telling you so.

If you are knowledgeable and want to test your charging system with a voltmeter, consider this, some carmakers have systems that will not charge when the battery is found to be full. This is done to prevent overcharging and also to increase miles per gallon (The drag on the engine is less) This also helps the durability of the alternator.

Alternators are not designed to "charge" batteries (specially newer cars, they are usually weak in this area). Their job is to keep a fully charged battery that way.
When a battery goes down for any reason, the alternator has to work overtime to bring it back to normal. The use of day driving lights is one of the reasons many alternators fail prematurely, the alternator works harder than in a regular system. But they do offer a good safety measure. Also accessories not installed at the factory like monster stereos will also put an extreme demand on a stock system not designed for such loads. There are some high amp alternators available for these cases. Also the use of multiple batteries helps. Consult an expert in this field for assistance.

Never disconnect a running car battery terminal to "test" the charging system. This was done long ago before cars started using computers. But today doing this can and will damage very expensive components. Also it can create sparks that could cause an explosion. Believe me, many people still use this method to test the alternator, yes even people that "think" they know, like some airplane mechanics.

Starting a car with the cables connected and letting it run could damage systems in either car. Things like computers etc. I have fixed many vehicles with bad alternators and computers due to this. That is why I recommend charging the bad battery by letting the good car charge the bad one for at least 10 minutes. Then you can disconnect the cables and start the car with out damaging anything. There's a theory that running two cars with the cables connected can damage the alternators. I will up date this article with some facts about this.

Push starting; it may not get you too far either.

Another way to get a car running is by push starting it. This is not recommended either. First, damage to the drive train is possible, (Expensive) especially if done often. Second, as I mentioned before, if the car doesn't run because the battery is dead, the alternator will work too hard to charge the battery when you get it started. If the problem is the alternator, the car won't run too far at all because the battery is not getting any charge so it will be depleted very soon. Push start should be done only in extreme emergency situations. As I said, be intelligent and call an expert.

I hope the information here was of help to you. As always no one is perfect. If you think there's a mistake or want to add something to this article, by all means contact me directly.

Considering the low cost of replacing the battery with a new one and after reading this information I am pretty sure you will decide not to risk performing a jump instead of replacing the battery. Unless of course, you are a professional and/or already know what I wrote here.

Today's cars are very complex machines; it is better to leave things to the experts when it comes to dealing with them. You will actually save more money (or even your own life) that way by avoiding costly mistakes.

CMT of Miami works on all brands and models of vehicles. We specialize on battery installation and alternators. When you use our services you can rest assured that you will get the right battery and professional service right at your doorsteps for a fair price.


The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery


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Video Clips. Duration : 4.05 Mins.



ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」



8th Single 『Deeper Deeper / Nothing Helps』 SUZUKI SWIFT SPORT CM SONG Jan 09 , 2013 on sale iTunes URL: smarturl.it

ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」

ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」




ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」

ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」

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Used Mobility Scooters


Samsung Galaxy
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Until a few years ago, the only market of mobility scooters comprised of the elderly and the disabled. However, in recent years, people of almost all age brackets are opting for mobility scooters given their convenience and comfort in getting around places. This has led to a wide expansion of the market, leading to several new versions and modifications in mobile scooting to be introduced. As the prices are increasing, a consequential secondhand market has also opened up.

In past years, mobile scooters had no resale values. The prime reason for this was most scooters were prescribed by doctors and hence they could be available to the buyer with coverage of the entire cost. Mobile scooters are also VAT exempt, and hence they are very cheap buys. But now, people wishing to buy scooters without prescriptions have the option of buying a used scooter.

There are certain precautions to be taken while considering a used scooter. The prime area of concern is the battery in electric mobility scooters. Though rechargeable lead batteries are used, it should be realized that batteries have a limited life. More often than not, new batteries may be needed while buying used scooters. Other electric features like the charging points and the motors need to be tested.

Mobility scooters are highly flexible vehicles. Major moving parts are the wheel axles, the tiller and the seat. All of these must be properly scrutinized, especially the seats. Scooters have cushioned plush seats that can swivel from 90 degrees to 360 degrees. The swivel must be checked. This is also true of the tiller, without which the scooter will lose its maneuverability.

Mobility scooters are generally companions for life and are not resold. People may consider selling them if they buy newer and better scooters, or in some other unfortunate circumstance. Though not necessary, it is advisable to know a bit about the history of the scooter. This would throw some light on how the scooter has been used and give an idea of the maintenance it would require.

The price of a used mobility scooter depends on the seller. It may range from 0 to 0, depending on the features and the brand of the mobility scooter.


Used Mobility Scooters


Battery Booster

ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」



Samsung Galaxy

Video Clips. Duration : 4.05 Mins.



ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」



8th Single 『Deeper Deeper / Nothing Helps』 SUZUKI SWIFT SPORT CM SONG Jan 09 , 2013 on sale iTunes URL: smarturl.it

ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」

ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」




ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」

ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」

No URL ONE OK ROCK 「Deeper Deeper」




8th Single 『Deeper Deeper / Nothing Helps』 SUZUKI SWIFT SPORT CM SONG Jan 09 , 2013 on sale iTunes URL: smarturl.it




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Battery Booster

Used Mobility Scooters



Used Mobility Scooters
Used Mobility Scooters






Battery Booster


8th Single 『Deeper Deeper / Nothing Helps』 SUZUKI SWIFT SPORT CM SONG Jan 09 , 2013 on sale iTunes URL: smarturl.it




Tags:



Battery Booster

The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery



The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery
The Right Way To Jump Start A Dead Car Battery






Battery Booster


8th Single 『Deeper Deeper / Nothing Helps』 SUZUKI SWIFT SPORT CM SONG Jan 09 , 2013 on sale iTunes URL: smarturl.it




Tags:



Battery Booster

Cell Phone Radiation: The REAL Issue and How to Reduce Radiation Levels Coming From Your Cell Phone



Cell Phone Radiation: The REAL Issue and How to Reduce Radiation Levels Coming From Your Cell Phone
Cell Phone Radiation: The REAL Issue and How to Reduce Radiation Levels Coming From Your Cell Phone






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